Saturday, March 7, 2009

North Eastern Province: Hidden sights of a lost outpost

North Eastern Province has often attracted rare adventurers — humanitarian workers.

They swarm this sun-baked province in chartered planes, cruise in luxurious 4WD vehicles and lodge in the best hotels before venturing out for an encounter with poverty.

Any journalist looking for a quick conflict story can find it within minutes of arrival in this region that also hosts Dadaab Refugee Camp — one of the biggest in sub-Saharan Africa.

But it is not just calamities and conflicts that define the region. The province — some 290km north east of Nairobi — is unexploited gem. World War II forts, trenches, bunkers, military airbases, decoys and gun turrets stand in defiance of the weather vagaries.

While Fort Jesus in Mombasa is well known, Fort Elwak in Mandera and Fort Wajir are not.

The province is listed as a perennial food dependency region. "We are tired of pity tourists," says Khalif Abdi, a Garissa resident.

With day temperatures oscillating between 35 and 40 degrees Celsius, many equate the region with hell on earth. But early last year, when the country was plunged into an orgy of violence over disputed presidential election, NEP was a haven of peace.

Investors who previously loathed the province over insecurity are making inroads into the region, whose attractive tourism potential is largely untapped. It boasts a rich cultural heritage, good hotels and a variety of wildlife.

Left out in campaign

During the Ministry of Tourism’s drive to market the country as a tourist destination, NEP was not part of the campaign.

"So you wonder which Kenya they are marketing. The ministry should tell us whether NEP is in Kenya or Somalia," says Ibrahim Rashid Ahmed.

Local leaders and the Government have been accused of doing nothing to market the region.

"Investors are not getting assurance of safety. Our leaders’ silence only propagates the long held fear of the province," says Shebe Mohammed, a manager at Titanic Hotel in Wajir.

But residents have not despaired. Hotels have cropped up, perhaps anticipating tourism boom.

"The province is a potential tourist destination. We have to be prepared for the windfall," says Abdi Fatah Athar, who runs Wajir Hilton Hotel.

The hotel is next to Wajir military airbase, about 4km from Yahood Dam — a sight to behold at midday when assorted wildlife converges there.

"Transit visitors are the majority of our customers at the moment," says Athar.

Five tourist class hotels have come up in the last two years. Conference tourism is booming.

According to the Kenya Wildlife Service listings, there is a variety of wildlife in the region, including elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards, hippopotamuses, crocodiles, and Hart beasts.

Economic pundits believe tourism will one day surpass livestock as the lifeline of the province. The livestock sector is under threat from weather vagaries and diseases.

There are a few setbacks that could derail the residents’ dreams, including internecine wars between Garre and Murule clans in Wajir.

Other clans appear to have resolved their differences.

"We are concerned because whenever the two clash, the negative publicity earns the province a bad name," says Ibrahim Rashid Ahmed.

Undoubtedly, the main reason tourists shun the province is its proximity to Somalia.

Activities by Al Shabaab militant group that makes Somalia ungovernable is a great concern. The US says the group has links with Al-Qaeda.

In its last travel advisory, the US particularly warned its citizens to avoid NEP.

The region’s problems are compounded by police laxity. Two months ago, Al-Shabaab elements overran a police outpost in Wajir and freed two terrorism suspects.

Despite the travel advisory, the province got a shot in the arm in 2006 when the then Illinois Senator Barack Obama toured Wajir.

Presence of US marines

"The Government did not capitalise on this to market the province, considering it was the first stop before visiting his paternal homeland in Nyanza Province," notes Shebe.

The huge presence of US marines in remote villages also portrays the province as insecure.

Opening up to tourists

Then, there is the issue of the local police insisting on providing security escort to motorists although the last reported bandit attack was in 2001.

Religious leaders are not enthusiastic about the prospect of the region opening up to tourists. They say encounter with western culture will interfere with their religion, predominantly Islam.

Nevertheless, hotels in Garissa report booming business. At Nomad Palace, Hidig Hotel, Nomad Resort, Guest House and Almond Hotel, aid workers, contractors, foreign journalists and families taste tranquillity fast fading in other parts of the country. Each room offers comfortable beds, spotless bathrooms and breathtaking environment.

The hotels may not be like the five star hotels but are superb by local standards.

Besides, one interacts directly with the proprietors. They preside over the kitchen themselves, whipping up favourite recipes from across Europe, America and Asia and showing visitors around.

Many cautious visitors fall in love with the province eventually. In NEP, locals have unique perception of visitors.

They share the little they have. Residents’ commitment to hospitality is evident. They go the extra mile to make visitors comfortable. Resting under an acacia tree and gazing at the golden sunrays from the setting sun is something visitors will always cherish.

Source: Standard

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